Guksadang Shrine

On Saturday, I decided to take a hike a up Mt. Inwangsan, on the northern side of Seoul. Once the home to wild tigers which died out just over a century ago, it is now famous for being home to Guksadang, Seoul's most important shamanist shrine.

Getting off at Dongnimmun station, just north of Gyeonbukgung Palace, I began my walk along the path upwards. Unfortunately not to the tranquil tones of the birds singing in the summer sun as I'd been hoping, but to the morose drone of bulldozers tearing up the landscape.

A little way up I came to a large gate and just beyond this were some Buddhist temples set amongst some houses. Fortunately I couldn't hear the sound of the construction work going on down below, which allowed me to have a little walk around whilst admiring the temples in peace.

On all of the temples there were many beautiful designs and paintings, the most impressive being on the gates of the largest temple, Bongwonsa, depicting the guardian kings of heaven who protect Buddhists from evil and harm. There is a huge bronze bell at the entrance and a side shrine for the shamanist deities Sanshin(the mountain god), Chilsung(the seven stars of the Big Dipper) and Doksung(the river god).

Just behind Bongwonsa lies the Guksadang Shrine. Quite small and simple in its structure, it has none of the ostentatious decor or designs that I've seen at other temples on my travels so far throughout Asia.

It was originally built at the request of King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty on top of Mount Namsan, at the southern end of Seoul. Destroyed during the Japanese occupation in 1925, it was then secretly rebuilt on Inwangsan.

Korean shamans worship things in the natural world such as trees, mountains, rocks and streams, as it is believed that thousands of spirits and demons dwell within them.

A religion that is thousands of years old, it eventually gave way to more sophisticated ones such as Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism. Today it is not very widespread and there are believed to be no more than 100,000 people currently practising it in South Korea.

Laid on an alter outside was food including rice cakes and a pigs head, as shamanists believe that dead still require food and drink.

I also got to see a gut ceremony, which you may remember I saw for the first time when I went to the Dano Festival in Gangnuem a few weeks ago. This time I didn't take any photos, in respect of the wishes of the people I spoke to at the shrine. The last thing I wanted to do was disturb the ritual.

Gut ceremonies involve contacting departed spirits, who are attracted by the offerings of food and drink. They are often used to help cleanse a spirit of its impurities allowing it to enter the world of the dead. They are also used to wish for the wellbeing of a village or hamlet, for good fortune and prosperity, to make contact with a deceased relative or to cure an illness.

To accompanying drums, the female shaman priest, known as a mudang, gradually worked her way up to a frenzied state and went into a trance that allowed her to contact the spirits and it is even possible for her to become possessed by them. It was incredibly interesting to watch, even more so than at the Dano Festival, due to the more intimate nature of the ceremony.

Seoul Fortress Wall

Further up I came across two huge black rocks, which through thousands of years of weathering and erosion looked like two enormous lumps of slightly melted Swiss cheese and had a somewhat eerie feeling to them. It is here that people come to pray for a son, as there has always been much importance placed on having a boy in Korean culture as the inheritor of the family line, especially during the Joseon period of Korean history. Whilst here I saw people lighting candles and placing them in glass cabinets and various other places around the rocks.

Going upwards I noticed more candles and incense sticks randomly dotted over the rocky landscape. Following the path, I eventually came to an area with a small shrine and a small picture of the Buddha carved into the rock. The man here told me that it was over 300 hundred years.

Here it was peaceful. A complete contrast to the construction going on down below.

After waiting here a short time to gather myself and cool down, a feet easier said than done in the humidity South Korea is currently experiencing, I then made my way back downwards.

Taking this route I saw part of the recently renovated Seoul Fortress Wall. Twisting across the landscape like a huge snake, it was originally built in 1396 and at one point in time it was 18.1km long, but now just small parts of it remain dotted around various parts of the city.

I stopped quickly to take some more photos and then returned to the Buddhist temples that I saw at the beginning of my climb for some quick refreshment, before finally returning home.

You can see all the photos here.

Tuho

Jagalchi Fish Market

Jagalchi Fish Market is the largest in South Korea and is famous for its fresh fish, the noisy deal making that goes on in the early hours between retailers and the peculiar local accent of the Jagalchi women who work there.

After the Korean War ended in the 1950s, women came to play an important role in the market and as a result they have the rather quaint nickname of 'Jagalchi ajimae'(Jagalchi aunts).

It's worth getting there early in the morning to watch the unloading of the fresh fish from the boats and to see the retailers noisily haggling over the prices. You can even get to try some in one of the many restaurants that are located nearby, if you want to.

After spending most of the morning taking in the sights and the smells of the market as well as having a very nice fish breakfast, I went to Gwangali beach for the next day of the Busan Sea Festival.

The unfortunate thing about travelling is that you are always at the mercy of the weather. By about mid afternoon, before the festival had even started it began to rain and it just looked as if it was going to get worse. Not one wanting to wait around around in my hotel room, trying to find things to do whilst waiting for the rain to stop, I decided to cut my losses and return back to Seoul that day.

Whilst walking along the seafront on I saw a Korean man with a big grin on his face dressed in shorts and carrying a back pack, urinating in front of a restaurant. Of course a sight you could see in any country, but what made the situation slightly surreal was the fact that he was doing it in front of a group of nuns who were sitting down for their afternoon meal.

Obviously the last thing they would have been expecting on their afternoon outing to the seaside. Fortunately they saw the funny side and were laughing at the situation.

This managed to put a smile on my face and walking on, I was unable to unable to hold back a little chuckle to myself, which was unfortunately like a red rag to a bull.

'Hello my friend. Nice to meet you', the man said to me after doing himself up.

Slightly worried I may have attracted a cheeky little chappy I didn't really want to befriend, I began to walk a a bit more briskly and then darted into a nearby convenience store, whereupon I managed to lose him.

Unfortunately, this isn't the first time I've had the pleasure of someone exposing themselves to me whilst travelling abroad. One time in Japan, when I was in my local watering hole, the Avion Bar, a man in his mid-twenties, the worse for wear after having far too much sake and beer, decided to reveal himself to me. He then continued to ask me my opinion about what I thought.

I naturally declined to comment in the vain hope he would just just leave me alone.

Fortunately he did eventually manage to put everything away.

Unfortunately, he then decided to get a bit carried away and coming from behind, decided to try and undo my trousers. Obviously in his drunken stupor he had thought to himself, 'I've shown you mine, now you must show me yours.'

Luckily for my humility and everyone else watching in the bar, he was unsuccessful in his attempts, as after a small struggle, I eventually managed to fend him off.

The night then turned into a series of challenges set by him against me and my friends, which included arm wrestling, Pop-Up Pirate, drinking games, electronic darts and a game of Jenga, which turned into a tactical behemoth of a match and went on until the early hours.

Experiences that definitely fall on the side of what one would call, how can I put it?

Interesting.

You can see all the photos here.

Beomeosa Temple

The next day, I went to the Beomeosa temple, one of Korea's oldest Buddhist temples, which lies at the foot of Mount Geumjeongsan, to the North of Busan. The temple was originally founded in 678 AD by the priest Uisang-daesa.

Legend says that one day golden fish came down from Nirvana to play in a well at the top of the mountain, which caused the water to glimmer like gold. Hence the name of Mount Geumjeongsan, which means 'gold well' and the name of Beomeosa Temple, which means 'where the fish from Nirvana play'.

The climb to the temple is about 3km along a winding road, so in the heat and humidity that South Korea is currently experiencing, I wisely decided to take a taxi.

Surrounded by coniferous trees, it is set amid some extremely beautiful scenery and there is definite feeling of peace and tranquility here, despite the crowds leading up to the temple.

The entrance gate to Beomeosa Temple is supported by stone, which is unlike other temples where the entrance gates are usually wooden. Walking up steps towards the main hall you pass through a number of gates, most impressive of all which is the Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings. Guarding the entrance to heaven, the huge carvings here are beautiful to look at and are common to many temples in Korean culture.

Further up you come to main temple complex itself. I love visiting temples as I always feel a sense of peace and serenity when I am in one. It's partly a combination of the architecture, the smell of burning incense and general ambience that help to create an atmosphere quite unlike any other in Western culture.

At one point the temple had over 360 rooms and 1000 monks in residence. During the Japanese invasions of the late 16th century the temple was destroyed and now only a stone pagoda and lantern date back prior to these events.

Deserted for ten years after it was destroyed, reconstruction was finally completed in 1713 and the temple has remained intact to the present day. Although now smaller, it is still an impressive site with its stone pagodas, ornate carvings and huge bell.

Hoguk Buddhism is also practiced here, a form of Buddhism which is based on the belief that Buddhism protects and defends one's country. It's also possible to stay here as part of the temple stay programme, where you have the chance learn about Buddhism and even practice a traditional Korean martial art known as 'pulmudo'.

Heavenly Kings

After admiring the beauty of the temple, I went back down and luckily some Korean people very kindly let me join them in a taxi back to the subway station and then it was off to Haeundae beach, for the 10th Annual Busan Sea Festival.

The beach was packed with people who had come to watch various Korean artists perform and a good night was had by all, despite the weather's best attempts to rain.

I also had the pleasure of accidently staying at a hotel in the red-light district that I had checked into earlier that day, just next to Busan Station. Although I didn't actually realise this until it was night-time and I was walking back.

There is a large foreign population living in this part of Busan and at around 3.00 am in the morning, I was woken up by what basically almost amounted to a full scale riot, between around ten big and burly Eastern European men and a group of Koreans. I had an ideal spectators viewpoint from my hotel room, to watch the carnage of bottles being broken and chairs being thrown.

Fortunately, after not actually witnessing any blood or unnecessary mutilations, the police arrived to break up the fracas, finally allowing me to get back to sleep.

The very next morning I decided to check out and find somewhere that was perhaps a little quieter, as I thought this would probably be for the best.

You can see all the photos here.

Min-ju and Yang-suk

On Saturday afternoon, I set off on my holiday to Busan. Despite a couple of minor hiccups that involved me missing my train, I finally arived at Busan Station in the late afternoon and I checked into my hotel at around 5.00pm.

Busan is South Korea's second largest city and is also the world's 3rd busiest container port and has a certain ambience that making it different to other Korean cities. Situated in the south eastern part of South Korea, it has a population of just over 4 million and it's only 2.5 hours from Seoul by the high speed KTX train, making it a really convenient place to travel to.

Busan is also famous for its seafood and the Jagalchi Fish Market is one of the top tourist destinations here, as well as the Beomeosa Temple. The beaches here are also very popular and during the height of summer it is almost impossible to move on them with vast the crowds of people who flock to them.

It is also one of the few areas to remain under control of South Korea during the Korean War, when the American troops established a perimeter around the city, known as the Busan Perimeter, during the summer and autumn of 1950.

Once I was unpacked I went to the area around the Busan National University, which has some of the best nightlife in the city and is full of bright neon, bars and restaurants. Here I met my friends Min-ju and Yang-suk, who I originally met in Kyoto whilst travelling in Japan, nearly a year and a half ago.

After meeting each other at the subway station we went out for a Korean meal of spicy chicken, with rice and noodles, that was brought in on a hot plate. It was delicious and the more Korean food I try the more I love it.

They told me that they had both been following my exploits since we had last seen each other and complimented me on my travels around Korea.

'You are almost Korean', Yang-suk jokingly told me.

'If you can pick a grain of rice with chopsticks you are definitely Korean.'

Now at the best of times I'm not the most skillful person in the world with chopsticks, although I am competent enough to use them without completely embarrassing myself at the meal table.

The problem with in accepting the challenge, is that chopsticks in Korea aren't wooden like those in other Asian countries that I've been to, but are made of metal and are very long and thin. Therefore they can be a little more difficult to use than what I'm used to.

One of the reasons for this may be that during the Joseon era, the Kings, ever worried about security believed that by using silver bowls, dishes and utensils it would tarnish if any poisons were present. This tradition was then passed down to commoners. Another reason may be that metal is just easier to clean and store. It is also harder to break and easier to disinfect.

Fortunately I managed to pass the challenge with flying colours.

'You are definitely Korean', Yang-suk said with a smile on her face.

Afterwards we went to a bar and it was great catching up on old times, what we had all been up to and where we were now in our lives. Yang-suk was doing very well working for Samsung designing computer software and Min-ju was in the process of completing her Masters in Computer Software Design. I told them both how impressed I was with them and what they had achieved.

The topic of conversation got onto our experiences in Japan and joys of meeting new people when travelling. I love travelling and the greatest experiences are always those that are shared with others. Going to new places and seeing new things is always wonderful but it is often the shared experiences that are most memorable and important, as the people you were with know exactly how you were feeling at the same time as they felt it too.

Yang-suk and Minju talked about the good times that they'd had and how much they also missed the people that they had met whilst travelling around Japan and it got me thinking about everything that I've been doing for the past five years.

All of the wonderful experiences and people that I've met whilst teaching in England, Thailand, Japan and South Korea.

Many aspects of travel itself are transient in nature. You meet new people and you have wonderful times, but unfortunately everyone has to move on at some point. Sometimes the experience of meeting people is all but fleeting in a hostel or guesthouse for a couple of nights maybe, or sometimes longer if you're working with people or living somewhere.

Travel has broadened my horizons in so many ways, given me insights into foreign cultures and I've made so many friends along the way it's been unbelievable. Of course, as I mentioned before nothing lasts forever and I always feel a slight tinge of sadness when leaving a country, knowing that I might not see the friends and people I've met again.

The past five years has been amazing. I wouldn't change it for everything. Be it Thailand, Japan or South Korea, it's been the people who I've met who have made it all such a joy.

Shared experiences. Often fleeting moments in time. All part of the rich tapestry that is life and travel.

You can see all of the photos here.

Namdaemun Market

Named after the nearby Namdaemun Gate, Namdaemun Market is one of the biggest wholesale markets in South Korea, covering a total of over 10 acres. Established in 1414, it is also the oldest and largest, with over a 1000 shops, retailers, stalls and vendors selling anything and everything that you could possibly imagine.

Namdaemun is renowned for being inexpensive and small retailers come here to buy their goods from wholesalers, which they then resell. As most of the businesses in the area concentrate on wholesale, this allows the individual buyer to purchase things more cheaply and there are bargains galore on offer.

It's also very popular with Korean people and tourists as well, who are looking for a bit of atmosphere plus the odd bargain and is definitely worth checking out while in Seoul.

I went here today to buy a rucksack and a few other things for my holiday next week, when I'll be travelling to Busan on the south eastern coast. Hopefully I'll also get to go to couple of other places as well if I have time and weather permitting.

Ginseng

One of the most noticeable things about the market that I haven't seen before were the number of shops selling gingseng. Very popular in Korea and throughout Asia it is believed ginseng has medicinal qualities, that amongst other things can cure fatigue, strengthen the immune system, lower high blood pressure, and purify the blood from toxin.

Sounds like the perfect soju-induced hangover cure to me.

When I got home from a hard days shopping(and haggling) I checked the BBC's website and to my surprise they had included my blog as an example of how people are now using digital media. You can check out the article here.

You can see all the photos here.

Boryeong Mud Festival

Last Saturday, I went to the Boryeong Mud Festival on the western coast of Korea, about two and a half hours drive from Seoul. It is held along the 3.5 km long white sand beach of Daecheon, which is surrounded by mudflats, now the area's most valuable asset.

Daechon is a town which feels not unlike the commercialised resorts in Britain with its theme park rides and large hotels and it definitely isn't the place to come to if your looking for that quiet seclusion most travellers crave, as it can get pretty busy at weekends during the summer months.

There were a number of events held throughout the course of the festival including mud sliding, mud wrestling, a grand mud bathtub, mud football and a mud beauty contest. In fact just about any activity where it would be fun to get muddy.

The festival was started in 1998 to promote the sales of mud related cosmetics in the area and in the seven years it's been going it has become one of the biggest festivals in Korea with approximately 2.5 million visitors this year.

It is also the festival that attracts the most number of foreigners with some 30,000 turning up this year, all apparently unable to resist the apparent charms of a mud and alcohol fuelled weekend. At times it almost seemed as if every single English teacher in Korea was there.

You can buy mudpacks, mud body cleanser, mud sun block lotion, mud soap, mud shampoo, mud cleansing cream, in fact just about any beauty product you could think of, the manufacturers had somehow managed to make out of mud. Or you could just scoop some up in a bucket and get it for no charge whatsoever if you were that way inclined.

Of course most people weren't there for the cosmetics or the health benefits of the mud, they were there for a good time and it was great to see everyone letting their hair down, all completely caked in mud. Despite the rain throughout much of the Saturday people's spirits weren't dampened and the party went on well into the night, even after the fireworks and bands appearing at the festival had finished.

Ouch!

There were also lots of traditional Korean events to see and most interesting of all was a shaman ceremony, which involved shaman priests walking barefoot over what can best be described as an assault course of huge blades, where the slightest mistake could have resulted in some very nasty injuries. It was thrilling to watch and it definitely had the crowd on the edge of their seats and fortunately for everyone watching there wasn't any blood.

The following morning I decided to test the health benefits of the mud for myself so I went to the Boryeong Mud Skincare Centre. For 30,000 won I got an all over mud massage and face pack.

Rich in nutrients and minerals such as germanium and bentonite, apparently it's highly effective in preventing contraction and aging of the skin and also aids the body's metabolism, circulation and nerves. I'm not too sure about the health giving properties all the marketing men would have us believe, but it's definitely worth it even if it's just for the experience.

For all the photos click here.

The Korean War - Part IV

Eisenhower being sworn in as president

In January 1953, Dwight Eisenhower succeeded Truman as president. Having been openly critical of the war he made it be known that he was willing to use nuclear weapons, in order to bring about an end to the hostilities.

In early April the sides came together once again and during this time the first prisoners were exchanged in Operation Little Switch. The Korean War Armistice Agreement was officially signed on 27 July 1953, at the truce village of Panmunjeom and resulted in a ceasefire between the two countries. However a formal declaration of peace has never been signed, meaning that the two countries are still officially at war.

American marines crossing the Freedom Bridge, which links North and South Korea at Panmunjom

The final exchange of prisoners of war began on 5 August and continued until 23 December 1953. It was called  Operation Big Switch and took place on the border between the two countries on the Bridge of No Return. Prisoners were brought to the bridge and given the option to remain in South Korea or cross and never be allowed back

Much controversy surrounded the exchange regarding the voluntary repatriation of Chinese and North Korean soldiers, as well as allegations of the torture and brainwashing of UN prisoners of war. Nearly 76,000 prisoners of war were returned to the communists, whilst 12,773 United Nations Command POWs were repatriated. Whilst held captive around 40 per cent of the UN soldiers died and many of those that returned were malnourished and weak from their ordeal.

American prisoners of war 

In the armistice agreement the Demilitarised Zone(DMZ) was established to act as a 4 kilometre wide buffer zone between North and South Korea. It is the most heavily fortified border in the world and cuts the Korean Peninsula in two. Each side agreed to move their troops back 2000 metres and although soldiers from both sides are still allowed to patrol it, they must not cross the Military Demarcation Line(MDL) which runs through the centre.

The Korean War - Part III 

F-86 Sabre jet interceptors

Towards the end of 1950, war in the air also intensified and became a major worry for the United Nations Command. The appearance of Soviet Mig-15 jet fighters, flown by Soviet pilots masquerading as Chinese and North Koreans, stopped most of the daytime raids on North Korea. In response the US sent F-86 Sabre jet interceptors to Japan in their bid for supremacy in the skies.

All the time this was happening the Chinese were building up their forces. On November 25, they launched a major offensive of 180,000 troops against the UN soldiers, which would prove to be one of the most important turning points in the war. Fighting at night the Chinese maximized their strengths of stealth and large numbers, whilst minimizing their weaknesses of susceptibility to air strikes, or lack of artillery.

Attacks focussed on cutting off supply and withdrawal routes and ambushing counterattacking forces. Casualties were severe, and with the onset of a bitter winter, General Macarthur, realising he was facing an entirely new war, ordered a retreat. By mid-December the UN troops had been pushed back to the 38th Parallel and continued fighting forced them south.

The Chinese People's Volunteer Army

On New Year’s Eve, the Chinese along with North Korean units crossed the 38th Parallel and by January 4, 1951, they had reached Seoul. They managed to push a further 50 miles south but the victory for the communist forces was shortl-lived as the were unable to cope with the superior firepower of the UN.  Seoul was retaken by UN troops on March 14 and ten days later they had advanced to the 38th Parallel.

General Macarthur at this point became a strong voice advocating a strategy of complete victory, which put him at odds with Truman, who had declared he was now willing to sign a ceasefire. By making his views public Macarthur had ultimately signalled his own demise and he was relieved of his command to make way for General Matthew Ridgway. Talks began between the sides on July 10, 1951, but were unsuccessful and continued to flounder for the next two years as they remained locked in a stalemate position.

The Korean War - Part II

General Macarthur

 
On 15 September 1950, General Macarthur launched a daring sea-borne assault on Inchon, a coastal town located on the North Western coast near Seoul, 125 miles behind enemy lines. The military aim was to cut off the supplies and communications to the North Koreans and trap them in between the forces landing there and those located in Busan.

The assault was risky due to the nature of the unpredictable tides and rocky port, which made landing difficult. The waters of the Flying Fish Channel, which the assault would have to pass through, were only accessible for three hours a day at certain times throughout the year, depending on the season. For much of the time while the tide was out there were impenetrable mud flats, which extended three miles out from the headland.

Macarthur was eventually able to convince his superior officers that the assault was viable and preliminary naval gunfire and air bombardment began on 13 September. As Macarthur had predicted, the North Koreans were taken completely by surprise and the 13,000 troops involved in the landings met little resistance. There were few casualties and Inchon was quickly taken.

Troops fighting in Seoul

In contrast, the march towards Seoul was a slow and bloody as troops became engaged in urban warfare. At the same, forces located in Busan launched a push northwards. The North Koreans panicked and fled and on 25 September, Seoul was recaptured. Of the 70,000 north Korean troops who had been engaged in battle at the war front at the Busan Perimeter, over half were captured or killed, whilst the remaining 30,000 retreated back across the 38th Parallel into North Korea.

By 27 September, troops moving southwards from Seoul met those heading North from Busan. Proving the doubters wrong yet again, Macarthur had confirmed his place in history as one of the greatest military strategists to have ever lived.

With South Korea now liberated the Americans chose to continue past the 38th Parallel into North Korea. Their aim was to reunite the peninsula under a pro-western government, whereas the Chinese wanted North Korea to act as a buffer state.

Despite China’s threats to join the war if the UN forces entered North Korea, General Macarthur was confident of victory and believed China would not intervene. On 20 October, the capital of North Korea, Pyongyang, was taken and UN and Republic of Korea forces pushed northwards towards the Yalu River, which marked the border between North Korea and China.

The Allies reached the Yalu River on 24 October. At the same time, the Chinese began to send troops across the river, who engaged in a series of attacks under the name of the People’s Volunteer Army to officially avoid declaring war on US, Britain, France and other members of the UN. Macarthur paid little attention to these attacks, underestimating the strength and numbers of the Chinese soldiers in North Korea, a strategy that would ultimately prove to be costly.

The Korean War - Part I 

North Korean troops entering Seoul

On the 25 June, 1950, North Korea, seeking to reunify the peninsula, launched a surprise, but well organised attack on the South and advanced towards the capital Seoul.

Using arms supplied by the Soviet Union, they were able to quickly penetrate and overrun the weaker South Korean forces. Seoul was captured in a matter of days as the North Koreans advanced southwards to the strategically important port of Busan.

Their superiority was a direct result of the American stance towards the South Korean government who wanted to reunify the peninsula. President Syngman Rhee had even openly declared his belief of national unity by force.

In response, the Americans, worried about the possibility of the South invading the North, had limited the army to 98,000 troops, who were barely anything more than highly trained policemen. With 135,000 soldiers, the North Korea People’s Army outnumbered South Korea’s troop total and they were also supplied with more weapons, tanks and artillery.

The United Nations unanimously condemned the invasion of South Korea

As a show of military strength, President Truman immediately ordered troops into action and and air and naval units were sent in from nearby Japan. The US appealed to the United Nations Security Council for support and a motion to brand the North Koreans as aggressors. Once this was passed, member countries were called upon to help with military assistance.

Fortunately at the time, the Soviet delegate, who no doubt would have vetoed the motion, was not present. This was in protest at the UN, for refusing to give a seat to China. 14 UN nations offered to help including the United Kingdom, France, New Zealand, the Netherlands, Thailand, South Africa, Turkey, Colombia, the Philippines, Ethiopia, France, Australia, Belgium and Greece.

In total 300,000 troops were sent, with 260,000 coming from America. The UN Security Council also asked the US to appoint a supreme commander for the UN force and Washington selected General Douglas Macarthur, who had famously helped to defeat Japan during the Second World War.

As the North Korean army drove south, the American personnel, hurriedly sent from positions in Japan, fared badly against the superior enemy troops. The North Koreans cared little for prisoners of war, breaking international law by killing them, as the war-machine marched ever onwards towards the south of the peninsula. On 20 August, General Macarthur issued a statement declaring that that Kim Il-sung would be held responsible for any further atrocities committed against the UN forces.

American soldiers defending the Busan Perimeter

By September, the North Koreans had advanced so far they occupied all of South Korea save for a small pocket of resistance around the southern city of Busan, at what became known as the Busan Perimeter. 180km long, it extended to the Nakdong River which acted as a natural barrier, making it easier to defend.

For a period of 6 weeks throughout August and early September the North Korean troops attacked relentlessly, pushing the South Korean and United Nation forces to the limit. During this time the war came close to being lost, as inexperienced troops were thrown into combat against the highly organised North Korean army. Casualties were heavy, but fortunately the troops managed to hold the defensive line. Ironically, the withdrawal of the UN and South Korean forces created unintentional problems for the North Koreans as their supply lines became stretched and over extended and they ran short of weapons, food and ammunition.

Here's a short film of the Admiral Yi Sun-shin Festival.